Bordeaux Wine News

This weather is unbelievable! We were ready, with sunglasses on our noses and sandals on our feet, to enter the new era of global warming, and here we are, huddling round the fire, in the middle of a real cold Winter! When it's not snowing, it's raining, and when we're not frozen, we're cold!

The wine growers of South West France, who had previously resigned themselves to cultivating their vines in a Sahara-type climate, will now be pleasantly surprised to re-discover the benefits of a replenished water table and the improved health of vines which are pruned during cold dormancy.

As for journalists, they will perhaps realise that there is often a marked difference between the media's enthusiastic outbursts and the on-the-spot reality...and the weather!

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Chinese Translation : 法国葡萄酒旅游助推器

AWARDS AND LISTED SITES : The French government launches a dynamic strategy to reward the best tourist attractions.

It has become evident for years now that many wine growing regions (California, Rioja, South Africa,...) have been promoting wine tourism more actively and effectively than France. In this, the most visited country in the world (80 million tourists per year), the tourist industry is now attempting to make up for lost time. The government aims to boost the industry with a new initiative launched by Hervé Novelli, Secretary of State for cottage industry, business and tourism, in the shape of a "Conseil supérieur de l'oenotourisme" (great council for wine tourism). This authority has just awarded its very first prizes to wine tourism candidates.

The brand new 'national wine tourism awards for 2009' have just been presented to the winners : "We have examined 266 candidate applications, which is an encouraging total for a launch. Forty of them came from the South West," explains Marie-Christine Duboscq, who is from Bordeaux and runs the Puzzle Evasion agency. She is the only regional member of this great council.

To begin with, four winners were awarded prizes in four different categories : the Cazes family business in Rivesaltes (Western Pyrennees), for enhancing both a cellar and a viticultural site ; the "Table d'Olivier Leflaive" in Puligny-Montrachet (Côte d'Or), in the accommodation/restaurant category ; the Jura Wine Route, for creating a network of links between wine properties and other tourist attractions ; and lastly, the Alsace wine growers syndicate, in the 'marketing of a wine tourism product/event' category. The latter organises very popular picnic venues in various wine properties every year in September.

Then, last week, special prizes were awarded to 4 'above competition-level' candidates out of the total 266 for their rôle as "pioneers of wine tourism in France". These were : the Duboeuf family, who welcome 90,000 annual visitors to their village in the Beaujolais region ; the Maire family, for their restaurant La Table d'Arbois" ; and lastly, two undeniable assets in the Bordeaux region : the Caze family, for restoring a village in Pauillac (Médoc), and the Cathiard family for their "Sources de Caudalie" hotel, restaurant and spa complex in Martillac (Graves).

Distinction lasting three years :

In addition to these awards, Hervé Novelli has launched an appeal for candidates who wish to compete for a completely new catagory distinction called "Vineyards and discoveries". This aims to reward areas where different players, such as wine properties, restaurants, hotels and touristic routes, collaborate successfully. Candidates must submit applications before the end of April (1) to be in with a chance of winning an award just before the Summer season. This distinction 'label' will be valid for three years, beginning in 2010.

This drive to boost wine tourism will only be effective if the these distinctions reach an international level of recognition. A strategy must therefore be developed to 'export' them outside of France. As a case in point, in our region, three different types of distinction have been piling up over the years...

All of which have yet to reach complete international recognition : "Vignobles et Chais en Bordelais" (Bordeaux vineyards and cellars), "Destination Vignobles" (Vineyard destinations) and the "Best of Wine Tourism" awards which are presented by the Bordeaux Chamber of Commerce. These awards have at least sparked off a certain competitiveness and the various websites enable tourists to identify and locate the award winning 'labels'.

(1) website : www.atout-france.fr contact the "Agence de Développement touristique de la France.

PHOTO SO : (S.Lartigue) : The village of Bages, in Pauillac, has been awarded a "national pioneer of wine tourism" prize.

César Compadre . S.O. 02/02/10

Author:César Compadre
Photo:DR SO

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Chinese Translation : 萨克岛的葡萄酒

ANGLO-NORMAN (CHANNEL) ISLANDS : Bordeaux producer Alain Raynaud has been asked by the Scottish billionaire twins, the Barclays, to supervise the plantation of 5 hectares of vines on Sark.

Here is yet another territory to be conquered by the vine! The compass is now pointing towards Sark, one of the anglo-norman island nuggets (like its neighbours, Jersey and Guernsey...), located off the coast of Saint-Malo, in the Channel.

"No vines have ever been planted on this small island, so this will certainly be a challenge. We are looking to produce good quality white wines, perhaps even sparkling whites. Even if vines are now planted anywhere, the difficulty lies in obtaining quality everywhere."

Alain Raynaud is a well respected personality in Bordeaux wine circles. He and his family are estate owners in the Libourne area. He also works as a technical consultant for about twenty wine properties in France, as well as in the United States and Argentina.

Knowing that vines can be found in places as exotic as Tahiti, Thailand (two harvests per year), or Zimbabwe, why not on Sark? Especially as this island enjoys a similar climate to that of the Loire Valley, where some excellent wines are produced ; and, with the global warming effect, the vine cultivation boundaries seem to be moving further to the North in our hemisphere.

"The five hectares we are planning to cultivate have a granite soil. We intend to start planting in April, using pinot gris (grey pinot), chardonnay and savagnin, all of which have been prepared by a nurseryman in South West France. Density will be high - 8,5000 vines/hectare - to make the vines compete for water and minerals, which is a recipe for quality. But the main challenge will be the wind, which is sometimes gale-force : we will need suitable trellising," adds Alain Raynaud, who has already been to visit the future plot three times. He has a five-year contract which will last until the first wines are produced.

25,000 bottles :

No cars are allowed on the island, and it is only accessible by boat. However, the building of a cellar is planned, along with the hiring of a young BTS oenology/viticulture graduate, who will train the on-the-spot team. Eventually, the aim is to produce 25,000 bottles - which will be destined for the 40,000 tourists who visit this little island paradise every year.

If this viticultural adventure comes to fruition, it will be thanks to the Barclays brothers, who live on the island, which is also a popular spot for tax exiles and wealthy retired people.

David and Frederick, the 75 year-old Scottish billionaire twins, contacted Alain Raynaud through mutual acquaintances. The twins also own "The Daily Telegraph" newspaper and the Ritz Hotel in London.

The Barclay Empire :

The twins were born within ten minutes of eachother, into a poor family of ten children. Both became interior decorators and began to build their empire by renovating shabby hotels in London, and then selling them on.

The Barclays' fortune is currently estimated at 2 billion euros. They live in a medieval castle equipped with a helicopter landing pad, on the tiny islet of Brecqhou, which is situated just West of Sark. Sark covers a surface area of 6 km squared and has a population of 600, who remain under the authority of Guernsey, and are therefore subjects of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II. Despite a serious disagreement with Sark authorities last year, the Barclay brothers still own most of the land on the island, which they rent out to farmers.

PHOTO : (Stéphane Klein) : Alain Raynaud : "We aim to produce good quality white wines and sparkling whites on the island."

César Compadre & Daniel Coulon, S.O. 27/01/10

Author:César Compadre
Photo:DR SO

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What a refreshing and rather nostalgic experience it is to taste a good wine while simply sitting at the table. In this case, the wine in question is a good Haut-Médoc, and one of the most consistent and endearing wines of its appellation, Le Clos du Jaugueyron.

It is refreshing because there is no astringency distracting your palate, no red or black fruit jam aromas muddling your mind, and no heavy body leaving a 'chewy' texture in your mouth. 'What is there then?', you may well ask.

We have here fragrances of freshly picked red peppers and redcurrants, supple tanins and above all a delicate quality which is a reminder of the time when great wines were less like powerful exercises in style, and more delicately elegant beverages.

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Chinese Translation : 以排水沟为归宿的葡萄酒

Ageing : Few bottles really improve with age, and many wines which have been kept in the cellar are fit for the kitchen sink, according to wine expert Jean-Christophe Lucquiaud.

Just the other morning, Jean-Christophe Lucquiaud received yet another letter, like the hundred or so others which arrive on his Bordeaux office desk every year : containing a list of wines from a private cellar and asking him to estimate their value. At first glance, the small amounts which figure in the right hand column (from 6 to 10 euros...) are considerably more in number than the large figures refering to rare gems with street value....

"Sometimes we get a nice surprise, but most of the time, we see bottles which should never have been aged that long! Managing a cellar at home is a tricky exercise," explains Jean-Christophe Lucquiaud, who inherited this family business from his late father, Jean-Pierre. The Lucquiaud family is well-known for its expertise in the valuation of mature wines, which will eventually be for sale on the flourishing auction markets. Consequently, Jean-Christophe works with at least ten auctioneers in France (1).

There are many reasons which can dictate the need to have your cellar valued : death of a spouse (many widows find themselves at a loss when confronted with a pile of cases left by their late husband), inheritance, house moving or financial straits (2).

"Many people don't drink wines as early as they should. The idea that the majority of bottles age well and increase in value is false."

This is especially true for several categories of wines : rosés, which should all be drunk within two years of bottling ; dry white wines which are fruity and fresh tasting give immediate (not everlasting) pleasure ; champagne, which can lose its bubbles with age (even if the English market appreciates it like that...) ; entry-level and mediocre quality red wines at 5 to 10 euros a bottle, which will not improve with age ; not forgetting confusion between brand names like Mouton-Cadet (a Bordeaux AOC blend) which some still confuse with Mouton Rothschild (classified château in Pauillac)....

Time can also do damage :

In fact, the improvement in quality that time brings can only apply to great wines, be they red or dry and sweet whites, which represent a tiny fraction of the market. However loyal and dependable a carthorse is, time will never transform it into a racehorse. The same goes for wines. Moreover, quality cellar conditions are necessary for successful ageing : the right location, temperature and humidity levels. Without these, amateurs would be running a risk. And, like in the insurance business, they would have to allow for a "loss ratio" in the form of wines destined for the kitchen sink ; wines, which after ten or twenty years of ageing, have been deprived of their original qualities and have lost their aromas, become oxidized or even evaporated. Not to mention the damage done to labels because of high levels of humidity, or dried and shrunken corks (which are drawn down in the bottlenecks) due to overly dry conditions.

"The Bordeaux vintages of 1987, 1992 or 1993, are all examples of wines which should be drunk now, and quickly..." underlines Jean-Christophe Lucquiaud. As are the less successful vintages of a past era, before the arrival of various beneficial and welcome techniques which were developed in the 1980's.

"1963 is one such example...but it would make a good gift for someone who turns fifty in 2013." Once again, as is often the case in the wine world, the intrinsic quality of a wine far from determines the value and the price of a bottle.

(1) website : www.interencheres.com features a calendar with auction sales dates. (2) in addition to reyling on their own experience, experts also consult "La Cote des Grands Vins" (Great wines quotation list), an annual guide edited by Hachette, as well as the website : www.idealwine.com

PHOTO : (Claude.Petit SO) : Jean-Christophe Lucquiaud estimates the value of private wine cellars.

Author:César Compadre
Photo:DR SO

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Chinese Translation : 二重奏乐章

MEET : Vincent and Béatrice Rapin, who have created one of the first "Parkerized" AOC Bordeaux wines. Their property, Domaine de Valmengaux, in Vérac, near Bordeaux, was born ten years ago.

It is exactly ten years today since Béatrice and Vincent's sweet music has been reaching the ears of "modern-style" amateurs of Bordeaux. Vincent is a jazz bass player and co-founded the school of amplified music in Tours in the 1990's. Béatrice is an interior designer. Both hail from the town of Bourges. At first glance, they did not seem at all fated to a life of viticulture. "Our knowledge of wine was limited to drinking sancerre with 'crottin de Chavignol' (goats cheese)," recalls Béatrice, with a smile. "Our wine story began in 1998. My father, who was a businessman based in the Berry region, dreamed of having a vineyard in Saint-Emilion. In 1993 he bought a small plot there thinking the wine would make itself. After a period of tenant farming, it became clear that someone was needed on site to look after the vineyard on a permanent basis. Vincent worked nights and I worked during the day. We both wanted to change our lifestyle and spend more time with our children. We threw ourselves into the project in 1998.

Birth of an estate :

"We learnt the craft through working with Louis Mitjaville and the oenologist Jean-François Chaine," adds Vincent, who is a strapping lad with a cheerful nature. "After two years, we wanted to have our own vines. In 2000, we were still in a state of general euphoria, especially as our experiences in Saint-Emilion had been appreciated by the critics - Parker in particular. But the only Parker I knew then was Charlie," he confides, with a malicious smile. They found what they were looking for some twenty kilometres away, in the hillside vineyards of Vérac, in the Bordeaux appellation. "We had to evict the hens who were nesting in the vats, repair the cellar roof, renovate the building and transform it into a gîte, and find a name for the property." The name they chose was Domaine de Valmengaux (derived from the names of their three children : Valentin, Clémentine and Margaux). As early as the release of their 2001 vintage, critics praised this humble Bordeaux which dares to encroach on fine wine land. Parker awarded it a hefty 92/100. "At the time this was unusual for a simple Bordeaux," remembers Vincent. "I wasn't making a product styled to suit the American market though, just a wine to my own taste."

"La dame de onze heures" (the Eleven o'clock Lady : commonly known as the Star of Bethlehem flower) :

However, almost as soon as it was launched, this small business ran straight into a legal tangle. The estate was drawn into a law suit brought on by a major property owner who accused the couple of homonymy - using a name too similar to his own brand. "We endured seven years of legal battle before we finally won the case. We nearly gave up several times. But, in the end, 'what doesn't kill you only makes you stronger'!" The couple's latest venture has been christened "La Dame de Onze Heures", named after a little plant of the Lily of the Valley genus, whose flower opens late in the morning - at eleven o'clock. This original name is that of their newest product - a 'micro-batch' wine produced from a small plot surrounding their house in Saint-Emilion. Today, Vincent admits he is content : "We have always chosen to favour quality above economy. That's what has saved us."

Whether they are making music or wine, Vincent and Béatrice always apply the same rule : never spoil the score.

PHOTO : (Claude Petit) : Vincent and Béatrice Rapin : "We favour quality over economy".

Domaine de Valmengaux tel : + 33 (0)6 15 42 39 12

Author:Claude.Petit
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